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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.